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Hudson Valley Traveler
by Wendy Kagan
Cross-Country Skiing: The Valley’s Best
 | Skiers take to the lake at Fahnestock Winter Park in Cold Spring.
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From wooded trails, under canopies of snow-laden trees, I emerge into a white expanse. It seems, magically, that I have slipped into an Ansel Adams photograph, a winter landscape of ethereal beauty. Snow laces everything in sight, articulating every limb of every tree. Breathless, I nearly forget that I—a summer-hungry, beach-going type, without a drop of Nordic blood in me—am managing to remain upright (mostly) on a pair of cross-country skis. Just this morning I had never skied before, and now here I am, gliding through a hushed and colorless world.
How is it that I had passed one winter in the Hudson Valley, and had embarked upon another, before learning about the existence of Fahnestock Winter Park in Cold Spring? Let there be no secret about it: This park, a wilderness that has been tamed and groomed for cross-country skiing, skate skiing, snowshoeing, and sledding, is within our midst, and exists solely for our enjoyment.
A fresh snowfall at Winter Park draws weekend crowds from the surrounding area, along with outdoor-deprived folk from New York City. The diverse terrain—hilly woodlands, meadows, and a snowed-over lake—appeals to both beginner and experienced skiers. Families and ski clubs flock to the park on Sundays, while solitary skiers dot the landscape on weekdays, when a celestial serenity prevails.
Open seven days a week in season, the park offers equipment rentals, 15 kilometers of ski trails, a warming lodge, and private and group cross-country skiing lessons. I highly recommend the latter for first-time skiers. After a one-hour lesson with Paul, the park’s director, I had gained enough confidence to wobble out on my own, keeping in my head a stream of instructive mantras: "kick and glide," "keep your knees bent," "follow through with your poles." To arrange a lesson or to inquire about snow conditions, call the park at 225-3998.
I admit, I have not traveled far to bring you this month’s installment of the Traveler column. Getting to Winter Park, which is off Route 301 near the Taconic State Parkway, took me no more than ten minutes. But I’ve discovered a few places to go with my newfound winter-sport abilities.
James Baird State Park (452-1489), in the Dutchess County town of Pleasant Valley, features ungroomed trails that traverse 3 miles of scenic woodlands, and opens its 300-acre golf course to skiers as well. You must bring your own equipment, as the park does not have rentals. While the warming lodge is open Fridays through Sundays, skiers have access to the trails and maps seven days a week. The park is located off the Taconic State Parkway, one mile north of Route 55. Admission and parking are free.
On the other side of the Hudson, the 12,000-acre Lake Minnewaska State Park (255-0752), on the spectacular Shawangunk Ridge, offers skiing on its groomed carriageways. Snowshoeing and hiking are permitted off the carriageways in ski season, and the landscape is picturesque, with scattered lakes, meandering streams, and a backdrop of the Catskill Mountains. Equipment rentals are available on weekends, as are ski clinics and other programs. The park is located off Route 44/55, five miles west of intersecting Route 299, near New Paltz. Admission is $4 on weekdays and $6 on weekends.
Adjacent to Minnewaska is another gem: the 6,300-acre Mohonk Preserve (255-0919). Rugged and unspoiled, Mohonk—the largest privately funded preserve in New York State—features 25 miles of carriageways for cross-country skiing. Here I’m told you can ski a loop for hours without passing the same tree or rock formation twice. While the preserve does not have rentals, visitors can pick up equipment at Rock and Snow, a store in New Paltz that rents skis for a half-day, a full day, or an entire weekend. Maps are available at the preserve’s visitor’s center, and admission is $5 on weekdays, $7 on weekends.
For the novice skier, here is some advice that I wish I had received. Bring sunglasses to protect against the glare of sun on snow, and travel light (when gravity is pulling you down, the last thing you want is a rock-like backpack to help it along). Dress in comfortable layers with warm socks, but don’t go overboard with heavy coats and scarves; you’ll generate ample heat through the mere act of skiing. And watch kids: They don’t mind if they fall down, and neither should you.
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